Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Stay with me happy travellers






I can hardly believe I have already been here for three weeks………
I realise my last post had no explanations of the photos but because you are all so super switched on, I also realise you will have made up apt (or otherwise) captions for yourselves and I understand there was “enough” to read anyway!!!!! (Thanks Adrian for taking a flex arvo to peruse my first blog……very cheeky).

I was only able to download five photos last time so a couple of these relate to the previous blog including the fabulous fish filleter for Andy and for Inspector Steve, the rope ladder fire escape rolled up on the balcony (and as far as I’m concerned, that’s exactly where it will be staying).

I have to confess that I wasn’t designed for communal living and to Lesley (the loo loony) and Lorraine, I know you will appreciate that I have already offered my training sessions for toilet roll changing……..lucky there’s no micro-wave – saves me training the roomies to mop up exploded food…which brings me to another one of the piccies – how do you like the designer kitchen (I know you could cook up a storm here though Dawnie…….) – the fish here is delicious, however, the majority of people (I don’t mind being in the minority) eat a lot of meat – except for pork of course, which is only available in secret places for ex-pats.

We all had to register at the British High Commission and for me, also at the Australian High Commission – can somebody pass on to the Governor-General that there is a great photo of him in the reception area. The security is so tight everybody gets searched and scanned, all bags are opened and no mobiles or cameras inside the compounds …….….which is fine, but the security police need a humungus dose of personality …….so Inspector Neil, how about a field trip for you and some of your cheerful troops!!!!!

Happy hour at the BAGHA (Brits Club) doesn’t cut it in comparison with the Secretariat bashes that you so eloquently organise Waltergator and not a Nutella glass in sight to collect the tab money. Great fun night – might be worth a visit for your social assessment article in the Grapevine Nicole, Emma, Carla and Gabrielle - and no I did not do the dance of the seven table clothes again, so Yass RSL remains the only place that Carol and I have been banned from – OK Cootamundra as well then……….

After the drive along United Nations drive – which is situated in one of the more affluent areas of Dhaka – we came back along one of the most polluted roadways I have seen so far – the contrast is surreal………….there were actually guys bathing in the swamp which is full of ……well I’ll save you the details - and the slum area is really like nothing I could have imagined – and these two areas are within ten minutes of each other. Made me think that the conditions I am currently living in are very comfortable, despite the cold shower - stop worrying Gwen, I have been very healthy of mind, body and soul (and the hair should recover by around 2020 – Emily, I will pay for a first class ticket if you bring your scissors).

Our safety and security briefing session was informative and reassuring – when you read the reports that Bangladesh is currently on high security alert it is actually the zone which is automatically engaged while the country is in political caretaker mode. The President, whose role is usually ceremonial, as for our Governor-General (David when next you’re briefing the boss can you tell him he gets two mentions in my blog), formed an interim government and the country is supposed to have a democratic election in December. So, if you were worrying (especially you Jordan) please don’t –besides we have a very well devised evacuation plan – which doesn’t include rope ladders………….and I now have the number of Superintendent Aziz who heads up the special service police unit (but no where near as important as you Sir Geoffrey)…….and how that happened is another whole blog and no I did not get arrested.

As if the pace and noise of Dhaka is not enough to get used to, we ventured to the International Trade Fair where there must have been a bazillion people– Elyse, Beth (from the UK) and I were the only ‘bideshis’ (foreigners) and every second person wants a photo – we now feature on the mobile phones of and unknown quantity of unknown locals –not quite Bollywood, but it is just across the border. On the way out of the site, I bought some pink (there was no purple) plastic food containers from a very persistent and convincing guy selling his wares on the street – I was super impressed when he pointed out to me that I had left the zip of my bag open and my money might get stolen.

Unfortunately our trip to Bangla classes the next day was very sad. As our three-wheeler taxi sped along with the insane peak hour traffic a street kid dodging the traffic was knocked down and run over and almost certainly would have died. We tried to stop but the taxi driver said it was too dangerous. The traffic was moving too fast and apparently the bystanders are likely to attack anybody they think could be responsible for the accident. It was very traumatic and we were all pretty shaken. Not much Bangla taken in that day. But then I am struggling with the language every day – nevertheless, I have learned to say some essential stuff like ‘kota takka’ – how many takka and ‘ami Bangla bohji na’ – I do not understand Bangla and most importantly ‘Coffee World jaben’ – please take me to Coffee World (guaranteed decent coffee but lacks the TLC of your coffee M2).

The street kids are everywhere and if they weren’t so delightful it would break your heart. We have been advised not to give money because it causes fights and often the kids don’t get the money anyway. They are filthy and their clothes are tattered and torn but I tell you they melt your heart with one smile and their bright eyes. And you should see their reaction when I pin one of those little koalas on them (thank you Megan). I am going to need some more of those....and as soon as a can get a straight answer (which is a tricky concept) about the distribution of donated goods from friends in Australia, I am going to request donations of clothing.

On Saturday, we spent a sensational day touring some of the historical sights – including the pink palace that I thought was to be my home while I was here. We also spent some time in old Dhaka which is an extraordinary rabbit warren. Our tour guide (who incidentally has an MBE for his services to community organisations) took us to the Hare Krishna temple where we were invited to stay for lunch. Talk about treated like royalty – although there are no thrones (well one – and it was western style) – we were announced like celebrities and received a very loud cheer from over 300 people we were dining with. It was a unique experience sitting cross-legged on the floor with a cement bench as the table which was about 10 metres long. The food was all vegetarian and ‘bhalo lage’ – I liked it. After discovering a little more about the history of this fascinating country, I am in awe of the tenacity and resilience of the Bangladeshis. How their life expectancy remains around 65 is beyond my cognitive skills – (thank you for the comical responses to that statement).

There is so much to experience in Bangladesh that I’m wondering if twelve months will be enough to appreciate all it has to offer once I start work in Khagrachari (I hope you have you found me on the map Margaret and Brendon) – of course I may be thinking a little differently after four months of monsoons.

In the mean time, stay well luvvies, I continue to miss you all and am extremely grateful that you are taking the time to keep in touch, it’s sooooooo important to me to hear what’s happening for all of you.

Abar dEkha hObe
Hugs from the Desh

Marguerite







Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Really from the Desh







Trying to decide what to include in this entry after a week in the Desh (without making you glaze over) has been a little tricky. As most of you know I luv to tell a story, ok, well all of you then. So should I include these points of interest:

It cost me $360 for my excess baggage – but there was no way I was leaving my tool kit behind – or gifts from my friends (particularly those from Lorraines yep 2 Lorraines).

After the nine hour flight to Bangkok I enjoyed a magnificent massage (thank you Tuula for your advice about the availability of this special treat at Bangkok airport) and a shower and the obligatory purchase of a fabulous Thai silk scarf.

The obvious foreigner on the flight from Bangkok to Dhaka – perhaps Fabbie was right in suggesting it might be time to cut the blonde curly hair………na (Bengla for no). I’m sure it assisted in being noticed by the not too shabby Chief Medical Officer for one of the biggest provinces in Dhaka who was travelling on the plane………impressive business card he has provided me with!!!!

After a slight hiccup at Dhaka airport – filled out the wrong form for disembarking and had some assistance from the security manager to get through customs – he also offered to escort me to my destination but I assured him I was being collected.

Alamgir, the driver from VSO, (sporting the promised smiling face) cheerfully greeted me and we got plenty of assistance from bystanders to load my luggage into the mini-van and we are on our way to the city……………and so began the most white-knuckling car trip of my life – five lanes of traffic (including trucks, buses, cars, motor cycles, taxis, mini-cabs (with three wheels), rickshaws, rickshaws and more rickshaws) trying to squeeze into three lanes – I know you could have made it happen Lesley and ‘Arraine, it is illegal U-turn heaven. And for you Sir Geoffrey from the major collision unit – I have just the job for you – I tell you the traffic cops here must be the biggest thrill-seekers in the universe. Oh and for Inspector Steve, the fire-engines here need a little maintenance, I think they came with the ark.

During the half hour trip I witnessed the epitome of decadence in the opulence of the buildings accommodating the hierarchy in stark contrast to the depths of poverty I could not have ever imagined in my most creative visuals. The pollution is chewable (thank you Gill for the lifesavers that helped me cope).

My home for the next month is an apartment (labelled ‘the induction flat’) and by Bangladesh standards is supposedly ‘up there’. By our Aussie standards, the only feature about this flat that’s ‘up there’ is that it is on the sixth floor of a pre-gone century building. Steve, you should see the fire escape – no joke it is a rope ladder attached by two bolts to the external wall of the building under our bedroom window (I have photographic evidence) and it drops to the roof of the building below us - about eight flights - I told Vincent (who shares the flat) if we ever need to use it, ‘after you mate’.

I am sharing with other volunteers from Uganda, Kenya, UK and Canada. They are all grateful for the short-wave radio (thank you to my super Secretariat friends for the pressie) and the music library on my lap-top and CDs (thank you Jordan). I am grateful that Elyse arrived shortly after me……….she is from Canada (the French part she keeps telling me in her fabulous accent). She is a 26 year-old engineer and will be working with VSO in Dhaka to assist with addressing gender equity issues. I’m not about to get too political here, but will just make this comment – Elyse, I salute you!!!!

We have met about twenty other VSO volunteers, the majority from the UK and Canada, all at different stages of their postings and carrying out various roles – I am the only Aussie and even though the hair has already gone to sh## (Peter, I’m relying on you to arrive with that essential equipment sooooooooon) it’s still the only blonde curly mop that I have seen.

We’ve had a couple of tours and shopping trips. I would like to tell you about the markets but unless you experience them it’s difficult to describe, so I hope the piccies will help tell the story. Suffice to say ‘order your fresh meat’ takes on a whole new meaning here……….and for you Andy, I am bringing home the fish scaler from hell, makes a samurai sword look like a pocket knife………one slip and it’s not just all over for the fish!!!

The Bengla lessons have commenced and I’m happy to say that I have kept the locals (and Elyse) amused and giggling with my attempts at practicing their local dialect…………..I think I should be charging them for entertainment.

Dhaka is just as described, like an ever moving ant hill - the density of people (14 million in this city), and traffic (over 400,000 rickshaws alone) – it’s non-stop. If you get tired of making travel arrangements for the Council members Emma……The noise is incessant – traffic (did I mention rickshaws), people, building, animals, the call to prayer, beggars, marketers – some of the tenants here have dogs in the building…….yep, big brontosaurus elephant barking ones, and the guys on the construction site next door do not know day from night. Nevertheless, I’ve slept a little and adapted to Bangladeshi time – five hours (and some decades) behind Australia.

The food is spicy hot and as expected, lots of rice………have had some delicious meals (but am already missing the tapas Mon Ami and Dr Paul) and some seriously bad coffee – but don’t worry Marilyn for every lousy cup I have I’m keeping count for how many you owe me. I have had my first trip to the tailor (in a rickshaw) Lynne and I pick up my first shalwar kameez on Saturday…………no purple sari yet David but it will happen, I just haven’t found the right one – need help selecting the right style June and Helen. By the way Judith, you should see the fabulous green materials here – no flash shoes though for you or Georgie.

In a little over three weeks, I leave Dhaka to travel eight hours southeast to take up my post in Khagrachari. It is a restricted area of Bangladesh and I need some more security clearances (see Inspector Neil, I told you there are jobs here for everybody……). Miriam (from the UK) who works for the same organisation I’ll be working with, is here in Dhaka at the moment and tells me that Khagrachari is a beautiful place with fresh country air, perfect for the lunch time shuffles to resume Adrian and Waltergator – so bring your gear when you come to visit. Miriam also reports that our organisation is progressive and the people are dynamic and happy. The townspeople are friendly and luv the volunteers………….. there is a great deal of socialising with the community and they love to sing (I thought of you straight away Jane) and dance. She asked me if I enjoy singing and dancing – so there’s our invitation Carol – I have my line-dancing music and am about to change the image of boot-scooting to thong-scooting or should I say flip-flop scooting……………

If I have overloaded you, blame Fabbie, Katrina, Neill and Warren who all had a hand in setting up the blog. Seriously though luvvies, with the limited time we have to use the net this really is the best way, albeit a tad impersonal, for me to stay in touch. So I hope you will tune in for the next instalment…..I miss you all, take care and thank you for sharing my journey.

abar dEkha hObe

Hugs from the Desh

Marguerite