Really from the Desh

Trying to decide what to include in this entry after a week in the Desh (without making you glaze over) has been a little tricky. As most of you know I luv to tell a story, ok, well all of you then. So should I include these points of interest:

It cost me $360 for my excess baggage – but there was no way I was leaving my tool kit behind – or gifts from my friends (particularly those from Lorraines yep 2 Lorraines).

After the nine hour flight to Bangkok I enjoyed a magnificent massage (thank you Tuula for your advice about the availability of this special treat at Bangkok airport) and a shower and the obligatory purchase of a fabulous Thai silk scarf.

The obvious foreigner on the flight from Bangkok to Dhaka – perhaps Fabbie was right in suggesting it might be time to cut the blonde curly hair………na (Bengla for no). I’m sure it assisted in being noticed by the not too shabby Chief Medical Officer for one of the biggest provinces in Dhaka who was travelling on the plane………impressive business card he has provided me with!!!!

After a slight hiccup at Dhaka airport – filled out the wrong form for disembarking and had some assistance from the security manager to get through customs – he also offered to escort me to my destination but I assured him I was being collected.

Alamgir, the driver from VSO, (sporting the promised smiling face) cheerfully greeted me and we got plenty of assistance from bystanders to load my luggage into the mini-van and we are on our way to the city……………and so began the most white-knuckling car trip of my life – five lanes of traffic (including trucks, buses, cars, motor cycles, taxis, mini-cabs (with three wheels), rickshaws, rickshaws and more rickshaws) trying to squeeze into three lanes – I know you could have made it happen Lesley and ‘Arraine, it is illegal U-turn heaven. And for you Sir Geoffrey from the major collision unit – I have just the job for you – I tell you the traffic cops here must be the biggest thrill-seekers in the universe. Oh and for Inspector Steve, the fire-engines here need a little maintenance, I think they came with the ark.

During the half hour trip I witnessed the epitome of decadence in the opulence of the buildings accommodating the hierarchy in stark contrast to the depths of poverty I could not have ever imagined in my most creative visuals. The pollution is chewable (thank you Gill for the lifesavers that helped me cope).

My home for the next month is an apartment (labelled ‘the induction flat’) and by Bangladesh standards is supposedly ‘up there’. By our Aussie standards, the only feature about this flat that’s ‘up there’ is that it is on the sixth floor of a pre-gone century building. Steve, you should see the fire escape – no joke it is a rope ladder attached by two bolts to the external wall of the building under our bedroom window (I have photographic evidence) and it drops to the roof of the building below us - about eight flights - I told Vincent (who shares the flat) if we ever need to use it, ‘after you mate’.

I am sharing with other volunteers from Uganda, Kenya, UK and Canada. They are all grateful for the short-wave radio (thank you to my super Secretariat friends for the pressie) and the music library on my lap-top and CDs (thank you Jordan). I am grateful that Elyse arrived shortly after me……….she is from Canada (the French part she keeps telling me in her fabulous accent). She is a 26 year-old engineer and will be working with VSO in Dhaka to assist with addressing gender equity issues. I’m not about to get too political here, but will just make this comment – Elyse, I salute you!!!!

We have met about twenty other VSO volunteers, the majority from the UK and Canada, all at different stages of their postings and carrying out various roles – I am the only Aussie and even though the hair has already gone to sh## (Peter, I’m relying on you to arrive with that essential equipment sooooooooon) it’s still the only blonde curly mop that I have seen.

We’ve had a couple of tours and shopping trips. I would like to tell you about the markets but unless you experience them it’s difficult to describe, so I hope the piccies will help tell the story. Suffice to say ‘order your fresh meat’ takes on a whole new meaning here……….and for you Andy, I am bringing home the fish scaler from hell, makes a samurai sword look like a pocket knife………one slip and it’s not just all over for the fish!!!

The Bengla lessons have commenced and I’m happy to say that I have kept the locals (and Elyse) amused and giggling with my attempts at practicing their local dialect…………..I think I should be charging them for entertainment.

Dhaka is just as described, like an ever moving ant hill - the density of people (14 million in this city), and traffic (over 400,000 rickshaws alone) – it’s non-stop. If you get tired of making travel arrangements for the Council members Emma……The noise is incessant – traffic (did I mention rickshaws), people, building, animals, the call to prayer, beggars, marketers – some of the tenants here have dogs in the building…….yep, big brontosaurus elephant barking ones, and the guys on the construction site next door do not know day from night. Nevertheless, I’ve slept a little and adapted to Bangladeshi time – five hours (and some decades) behind Australia.

The food is spicy hot and as expected, lots of rice………have had some delicious meals (but am already missing the tapas Mon Ami and Dr Paul) and some seriously bad coffee – but don’t worry Marilyn for every lousy cup I have I’m keeping count for how many you owe me. I have had my first trip to the tailor (in a rickshaw) Lynne and I pick up my first shalwar kameez on Saturday…………no purple sari yet David but it will happen, I just haven’t found the right one – need help selecting the right style June and Helen. By the way Judith, you should see the fabulous green materials here – no flash shoes though for you or Georgie.

In a little over three weeks, I leave Dhaka to travel eight hours southeast to take up my post in Khagrachari. It is a restricted area of Bangladesh and I need some more security clearances (see Inspector Neil, I told you there are jobs here for everybody……). Miriam (from the UK) who works for the same organisation I’ll be working with, is here in Dhaka at the moment and tells me that Khagrachari is a beautiful place with fresh country air, perfect for the lunch time shuffles to resume Adrian and Waltergator – so bring your gear when you come to visit. Miriam also reports that our organisation is progressive and the people are dynamic and happy. The townspeople are friendly and luv the volunteers………….. there is a great deal of socialising with the community and they love to sing (I thought of you straight away Jane) and dance. She asked me if I enjoy singing and dancing – so there’s our invitation Carol – I have my line-dancing music and am about to change the image of boot-scooting to thong-scooting or should I say flip-flop scooting……………

If I have overloaded you, blame Fabbie, Katrina, Neill and Warren who all had a hand in setting up the blog. Seriously though luvvies, with the limited time we have to use the net this really is the best way, albeit a tad impersonal, for me to stay in touch. So I hope you will tune in for the next instalment…..I miss you all, take care and thank you for sharing my journey.

abar dEkha hObe

Hugs from the Desh

Marguerite