Well life just continues to get better in Khagrachari and for those of you who have been cheeky enough to ask if I am actually here to work or socialise, the work report is coming. But I still have to share about the trip to the little village outside of Matiranga.
Mathura (our sensational Executive Director) invited us to his brother’s wedding. About 1,000 guests attended (and the winning wedge for the Secretariat Trivial Pursuit competitors goes to the team that guesses how many people with blonde curly hair were at the celebrations!!!). Most weddings here involve three days of traditional rituals and one is for as many of the guests as possible to return to the groom’s village to have another reception with the people who cannot travel to the reception held in the town. Because this village is in a restricted area outside the boundaries of my security clearance I had to get special permission and travel with armed police (they could do with some donations of some modern equipment Sir Geoffrey and Inspector Neil).
And on this occasion I was invited to travel in the entourage of the Chairman of the Chittagong Hill Tracts District – which is a very impressive honour. He made me feel very welcome when I had the chance to meet and chat with him before we started the one and a half hour drive prior to continuing the journey on foot.
After the dusty road trip to Matiranga we had to trek over some very rough terrain for a around two hours, literally across the top of the CHT. There were quite a few very steep hills and narrow tracks that had very ‘can’t see the bottom’ drops if we slipped. However, everyone took special care of the ‘bideshi’. Mind you I’m sure I was fitter than any of the ten or fifteen others (all male) in the group. The young police officer who was walking behind me most of the way was breathing so heavily I was concerned he was going to have a heart attack. And after he asked me for about the fifth time if I needed a break, I realised it was for his benefit not mine – he was unbelievably unfit (perhaps you could send those runners that you’re not using for the lunch time shuffle in my absence Adrian and I’ll pass them on to him). I was stunned that most of these guys were not carrying any water despite the fact it was almost 38 degrees!!!! We had to cross a couple of rivers and I almost walked through the river instead of over the bridge, just to cool off, but the state of the water would have required your most protective waders Andy and Paul.
We made it to the village all in one piece and to a very enthusiastic welcome. The bride and groom were stunning and the groom’s mother and I struck up an instant rapport even though we could not understand a word each other was saying. The reception was another feast and after some very boisterous singing and line-dancing (well I’m here to share skills - but it wasn’t the same without you Carol), it was time to say farewell and trek back to Matiranga. On the way back one of the young cops was able pick up mobile network right at the top of the hilliest area of the CHT and luckily I had my mobile phone with me. So I was able to phone Jordan for a few minutes and make Aussie history - perhaps even world history if Mathura’s estimation is correct - that I am not only the first Australian but probably the first foreigner to visit this area. I hope the next visitors can line-dance because there is now a precedent in Gunti village. What a wonderful day and inspiring experiencing - the generosity of the poorest of the poor.
I think the fact that the Chairman invited me to his home for tea when we arrived back in Khagrachari (and yes we talked about cricket as well as a number of other more serious matters) is proof that I was an honourable Aussie representative.
OK – there really is a work component to this trip. Zabarang,Kalyan Samity (ZKS), as I think I may have shared before is a very dynamic progressive NGO. You will be able to read about us on the net soon as Miriam (my brilliant young friend and colleague) and Amal, our IT specialist , (can you tell Evahn that Amal has only been on stress leave once since I’ve been here) are building the website as we speak. ZKS is committed to assisting the poorest communities (and the definition of ‘poorest’ here is very different from what we understand by poor in Aus) by developing sustainable programs which will empower the people to make changes to improve their lives with the emphasis on all aspects of eduction.
The team at ZKS is a group of inspiring young indigenous people – as well as fun loving and sociable. At the moment I am familiarising myself with each project ZKS is involved in and the roles of the multi-national donor organisations that sponsor their projects (pleased to report Save the Children Australia is one). I am here to focus on education programs and will assist and advise with strategic planning for the inclusion of these programs into the organisation’s framework.
So far I have had the opportunity to visit several pre-schools (trips for which I require a police escort) where the teachers are instructing in the children’s mother tongue in the first year and Bangla in year two. So the children will be multi-lingual by the time they start school. The children are amazing, so happy, receptive and wanting to learn. They enjoy having visitors and some of them already remember my name without being prompted………………very special experiences.
While they are enjoying school, I despair about their lifestyles ………..some of these children have to walk for miles often barefoot, and that’s after they’ve spent time collecting water from the nearest wells and helping around the house. They have very little, if any play and leisure time. Nevertheless, they are happy little characters and luv to sing and dance – no line-dancing (yet) but some Australian songs.
At ZKS, I am also assisting with some policy reviews and we are right in the middle of a huge recruitment process for staff for another extensive primary school education project for which ZKS successfully bid.
My project manager Bikram and I get on extremely well – he appreciates the fact that I’m a details person (and laughs at my jokes….oh and my singing) and is notably supportive of everybody on his team. He likes to take us to the tea shop just along from the office and I am going to treat him to some special Australian coffee that I understand is on the way from Australia (thank you soooooooooooo much GOWs).
And many thanks again to all of you for the special care packages, phone calls, emails and letters ………………..I’m almost lost for words (I know that would be a first) to try and express my gratitude.
Life here is actually very comfie – I am getting used to the regular power cuts – some times for six hours - so I have a charge light and two great torches (thank you Andy and Iain). When the power fails the water supply runs out, so I have simply learnt to fill buckets in preparation. On the weekends I sometimes have my shower later in the morning. Because the water tank is on the roof, the water is warm enough then to stand under without bracing myself for the initial shock of the usual cold water. I am used to boiling and filtering drinking water (and even assisted Lysanna with the construction of the filter, incidentally, she is an engineer and I suspect she could construct anything). I am almost used to sleeping under a mosquito net. I am not so spooked by the mouse size cockroaches any more, I have only seen one hand size spider in my flat and I have become used to the film of dust that settles over everything every day no matter how many times I wipe everything down.
I have a wonderful cleaning lady, Fatima, who comes twice a week and washes the floors and does the heavy washing (by hand of course – amazing to watch). I also have an awesome ironing man, Shooboohd, who is also the local corner shopkeeper. (I know those of you who have suffered and ironing session with me will be asking does he iron things inside out first? – well he will as soon as I can learn enough Bangla to explain to him that it makes it easier to iron on the outside!!!!!). I will try to get a photo of his iron – it must weigh 30 kilos and is filled with hot coals – incredible). It is expected that as a foreigner, I will employ some local people to help with domestics which in turn provides them with an income ……I don’t have any problem with that rationale but I do worry about the dismal amount they get paid. But for reasons best explained some other time, I’ll share my thoughts on that matter at a later date.
There are some aspects that I struggle with, apart from the poverty of course. One major one is seeing the people - men, women and children -who walk for days barefoot from their remote villages, to take cane to the markets to get enough money to buy rice to feed their families. The bundles are enormous, strapped around their bodies and then up over their heads...(I just can’t believe life can be so harsh in the same world we share). I don’t like the way some people treat the rickshaw drivers – geez those guys are amazingly fit, sometimes carrying three and four passengers on board, some of whom would do themselves a favour, health wise by walking. I am never going to get used to that guttural clearing of the throat and nose and spitting in the street that is accepted as normal practice here - at least men peeing in the street is very rare in Khagrachari (unlike Dhaka). And about toilets – well let’s just not go there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One other thing, I would really appreciate is having access to my mobile phone – but if I put that into perspective with the aforementioned about the locals, it seems rather insignificant doesn’t it.?
So now you know that I am actually doing some work while I’m here, I will give you a break from the blogging and share with you next time about the week of partying we have just enjoyed for Biju (New Year).
Again thank you sooooooooooooooooooo much for staying in touch – I think about you all often for one reason or another and wish you all lots of smiley days luvvies.
Abar dEkha hObe
Hugs from the Desh
Marguerite
Mathura (our sensational Executive Director) invited us to his brother’s wedding. About 1,000 guests attended (and the winning wedge for the Secretariat Trivial Pursuit competitors goes to the team that guesses how many people with blonde curly hair were at the celebrations!!!). Most weddings here involve three days of traditional rituals and one is for as many of the guests as possible to return to the groom’s village to have another reception with the people who cannot travel to the reception held in the town. Because this village is in a restricted area outside the boundaries of my security clearance I had to get special permission and travel with armed police (they could do with some donations of some modern equipment Sir Geoffrey and Inspector Neil).
And on this occasion I was invited to travel in the entourage of the Chairman of the Chittagong Hill Tracts District – which is a very impressive honour. He made me feel very welcome when I had the chance to meet and chat with him before we started the one and a half hour drive prior to continuing the journey on foot.
After the dusty road trip to Matiranga we had to trek over some very rough terrain for a around two hours, literally across the top of the CHT. There were quite a few very steep hills and narrow tracks that had very ‘can’t see the bottom’ drops if we slipped. However, everyone took special care of the ‘bideshi’. Mind you I’m sure I was fitter than any of the ten or fifteen others (all male) in the group. The young police officer who was walking behind me most of the way was breathing so heavily I was concerned he was going to have a heart attack. And after he asked me for about the fifth time if I needed a break, I realised it was for his benefit not mine – he was unbelievably unfit (perhaps you could send those runners that you’re not using for the lunch time shuffle in my absence Adrian and I’ll pass them on to him). I was stunned that most of these guys were not carrying any water despite the fact it was almost 38 degrees!!!! We had to cross a couple of rivers and I almost walked through the river instead of over the bridge, just to cool off, but the state of the water would have required your most protective waders Andy and Paul.
We made it to the village all in one piece and to a very enthusiastic welcome. The bride and groom were stunning and the groom’s mother and I struck up an instant rapport even though we could not understand a word each other was saying. The reception was another feast and after some very boisterous singing and line-dancing (well I’m here to share skills - but it wasn’t the same without you Carol), it was time to say farewell and trek back to Matiranga. On the way back one of the young cops was able pick up mobile network right at the top of the hilliest area of the CHT and luckily I had my mobile phone with me. So I was able to phone Jordan for a few minutes and make Aussie history - perhaps even world history if Mathura’s estimation is correct - that I am not only the first Australian but probably the first foreigner to visit this area. I hope the next visitors can line-dance because there is now a precedent in Gunti village. What a wonderful day and inspiring experiencing - the generosity of the poorest of the poor.
I think the fact that the Chairman invited me to his home for tea when we arrived back in Khagrachari (and yes we talked about cricket as well as a number of other more serious matters) is proof that I was an honourable Aussie representative.
OK – there really is a work component to this trip. Zabarang,Kalyan Samity (ZKS), as I think I may have shared before is a very dynamic progressive NGO. You will be able to read about us on the net soon as Miriam (my brilliant young friend and colleague) and Amal, our IT specialist , (can you tell Evahn that Amal has only been on stress leave once since I’ve been here) are building the website as we speak. ZKS is committed to assisting the poorest communities (and the definition of ‘poorest’ here is very different from what we understand by poor in Aus) by developing sustainable programs which will empower the people to make changes to improve their lives with the emphasis on all aspects of eduction.
The team at ZKS is a group of inspiring young indigenous people – as well as fun loving and sociable. At the moment I am familiarising myself with each project ZKS is involved in and the roles of the multi-national donor organisations that sponsor their projects (pleased to report Save the Children Australia is one). I am here to focus on education programs and will assist and advise with strategic planning for the inclusion of these programs into the organisation’s framework.
So far I have had the opportunity to visit several pre-schools (trips for which I require a police escort) where the teachers are instructing in the children’s mother tongue in the first year and Bangla in year two. So the children will be multi-lingual by the time they start school. The children are amazing, so happy, receptive and wanting to learn. They enjoy having visitors and some of them already remember my name without being prompted………………very special experiences.
While they are enjoying school, I despair about their lifestyles ………..some of these children have to walk for miles often barefoot, and that’s after they’ve spent time collecting water from the nearest wells and helping around the house. They have very little, if any play and leisure time. Nevertheless, they are happy little characters and luv to sing and dance – no line-dancing (yet) but some Australian songs.
At ZKS, I am also assisting with some policy reviews and we are right in the middle of a huge recruitment process for staff for another extensive primary school education project for which ZKS successfully bid.
My project manager Bikram and I get on extremely well – he appreciates the fact that I’m a details person (and laughs at my jokes….oh and my singing) and is notably supportive of everybody on his team. He likes to take us to the tea shop just along from the office and I am going to treat him to some special Australian coffee that I understand is on the way from Australia (thank you soooooooooooo much GOWs).
And many thanks again to all of you for the special care packages, phone calls, emails and letters ………………..I’m almost lost for words (I know that would be a first) to try and express my gratitude.
Life here is actually very comfie – I am getting used to the regular power cuts – some times for six hours - so I have a charge light and two great torches (thank you Andy and Iain). When the power fails the water supply runs out, so I have simply learnt to fill buckets in preparation. On the weekends I sometimes have my shower later in the morning. Because the water tank is on the roof, the water is warm enough then to stand under without bracing myself for the initial shock of the usual cold water. I am used to boiling and filtering drinking water (and even assisted Lysanna with the construction of the filter, incidentally, she is an engineer and I suspect she could construct anything). I am almost used to sleeping under a mosquito net. I am not so spooked by the mouse size cockroaches any more, I have only seen one hand size spider in my flat and I have become used to the film of dust that settles over everything every day no matter how many times I wipe everything down.
I have a wonderful cleaning lady, Fatima, who comes twice a week and washes the floors and does the heavy washing (by hand of course – amazing to watch). I also have an awesome ironing man, Shooboohd, who is also the local corner shopkeeper. (I know those of you who have suffered and ironing session with me will be asking does he iron things inside out first? – well he will as soon as I can learn enough Bangla to explain to him that it makes it easier to iron on the outside!!!!!). I will try to get a photo of his iron – it must weigh 30 kilos and is filled with hot coals – incredible). It is expected that as a foreigner, I will employ some local people to help with domestics which in turn provides them with an income ……I don’t have any problem with that rationale but I do worry about the dismal amount they get paid. But for reasons best explained some other time, I’ll share my thoughts on that matter at a later date.
There are some aspects that I struggle with, apart from the poverty of course. One major one is seeing the people - men, women and children -who walk for days barefoot from their remote villages, to take cane to the markets to get enough money to buy rice to feed their families. The bundles are enormous, strapped around their bodies and then up over their heads...(I just can’t believe life can be so harsh in the same world we share). I don’t like the way some people treat the rickshaw drivers – geez those guys are amazingly fit, sometimes carrying three and four passengers on board, some of whom would do themselves a favour, health wise by walking. I am never going to get used to that guttural clearing of the throat and nose and spitting in the street that is accepted as normal practice here - at least men peeing in the street is very rare in Khagrachari (unlike Dhaka). And about toilets – well let’s just not go there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One other thing, I would really appreciate is having access to my mobile phone – but if I put that into perspective with the aforementioned about the locals, it seems rather insignificant doesn’t it.?
So now you know that I am actually doing some work while I’m here, I will give you a break from the blogging and share with you next time about the week of partying we have just enjoyed for Biju (New Year).
Again thank you sooooooooooooooooooo much for staying in touch – I think about you all often for one reason or another and wish you all lots of smiley days luvvies.
Abar dEkha hObe
Hugs from the Desh
Marguerite
2 comments:
Dearest marguerite,
Reading your blog inspires me - thnak you for the continued gift of yourself. My cockroaches are a little smaller, and my water is not really that cold, and I have less dust and the power rarely goes off. Seeing you always smiling and radiant in the joy of your work gives me the perfect kick in the butt to be glad and grateful and HAPPY!!! I often become dispirited here on my island in Maldives (no resort, no beach!!), something that is foreign, but I think I will check your blog daily to remind me to be me and wake up to the joy in each day.
Hugs galore and best wishes for continued success. Go baby! Go!!
Pauline (Kulhudhuffushi, Haa Dhaal, Maldives)
Marvellous Marguerite,
you look divine in pink - only you could look glamourous dressed up on a rickety bridge over a river. Those supermodels have nothing on you.
p.s. your hair is going to become legend in the area. I had no idea it was so curly. Looks fabo!
hugs baby - luv ya work
Wonderful Wendy
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