Well I’ve been fortunate enough to enjoy many New Year parties in Australia but have never experienced anything quite like the five days of partying in mid-April to celebrate Biju (Chakma tribe), Bwisu(Tripura tribe) or Sangrai (Marma tribe) - to mark the New Year in Bangladesh.
The New Year celebrations kicked off with a community march starting at the oval just near where we live, then proceeded through town and finished around an hour later, at the cultural festival site on the outskirts of town. It was so much fun and a wonderful experience dancing (even some moments of line-dancing) and singing (we could have done with your assistance Jane) through the streets with hundreds of the local villagers. A very impressive cultural show, with typical Bangladeshi high volume merriment followed. Miriam and I apparently featured on national television when the celebrations were broadcast around the country. I promise, even though I have not seen the footage, our behaviour was very respectable…………………. We were then invited to join the dignitaries to a very impressive buffet – I have learnt it pays to be a little adventurous and sample the traditional delicacies because presentation can often be deceiving, and most of the food, while usually spicy, is extraordinarily YUM – khub mojar kabar (translated = this food is delicious – problem is when you make this comment your plate is piled high again).
Talking food, there’s an added bonus to keeping company with the awesome volunteers from other countries – aside from learning so much about their amazing experiences, I get to enjoy a diverse range of gastronomical treats. Elyse, Miriam, Lysanna and Kyson (who you have all met previously) and Omari (my gorgeous friend from Kenya) are always cooking up fabulous dishes……so I’m wondering if the Aussie barbie or my tuna pasta bake will ever make the grade. I have to tell you though, the Vegemite (thank you Dawnie) sandwiches I made for arvo-tea were an absolute hit. They have asked for a repeat.
OK, back to Biju………….In the evening, my fab volunteer friends Beth (from England) and Yvonne (from Scotland) arrived three hours late on the bus from Dhaka to join the five day food and wine fest. I know some of you will be curious about the wine factor, given we are residing in a Muslim country. The Chittagong Hill Tracts (which is akin to a state or territory in Australia and where Khagrachari is located) is the exception, with a diverse range of religions observing each others’ celebrations and traditions. The area is famous for rice-wine and while I haven’t sampled it myself, I understand the taste ranges from ‘smooth as silk’ to ‘residual rocket fuel’. (Would luv to try to bring some to happy hour Waltergator, but I think I would have to declare it as inflammable goods.) Nevertheless, it is consumed with great gusto, particularly by foreigners (I have caused some confusion for the locals – a foreigner who doesn’t drink alcohol!!!!!!! but they are very respectful and always provide plenty of juice and of course tea). (Mind you the other ex-pats are more confused to be in the company of an Aussie who doesn’t drink alcohol – so you can see our reputation for enjoying a grog or ten is alive and well all over the world.)
That night a horde of us indulged at System (our favourite restaurant) and some of us ‘kicked on’ back at my place – all very civilized of course because we were briefed about the ‘non-stop’ partying ahead of us for the next three days and our 0800 start the following morning for the pilgrimage to Matai Pukhini, Nunchari.
This event occurs once a year when approximately five thousand Christians participate in a pilgrimage to the ‘Holy Pond’ to bathe in symbolic spiritual renewal. As you can imagine it is fairly unique for foreigners to participate and we were very noticeable in the crowd (especially as we travelled with police escorts). However, the locals were delighted with our presence and encouraged us as we trekked the long climb in the extreme heat. This hike was a challenge even for the fittest of us and a few rests were necessary along the way. The effort was worth every drop of sweat though. It’s not known how many foreigners have actually swum in the pond but Lysanna and I decided to brave the stares and, with the assistance of some local women, stripped off and bathed in the holy water. Terry, (a fantastic new mate from Canada who works with Save the Children), said the gallery of photographers on the bank of the pond multiplied in seconds – you can imagine how unusual it would have been for these people to see white skinned ‘bidehsis’ participating in this ritual. I will spare you those piccies (don’t worry Jordan, it wasn’t as embarrassing as it sounds because we covered up in borrowed rinais to maintain our dignity) but I have include a couple of the actual swim and some of the journey. Even though the water was muddy and we were sharing with sacred goats that were being blessed, it was a remarkable opportunity and one I am grateful we had the opportunity to experience. The trek back was a little less challenging after being refreshed by the cool water. We were all fairly tired, but managed to party a little…….OK, a lot, that night after dinner at a friend’s house.
The real feasting began around 10am the next day before we even left the building where my flat is located. One of the families downstairs invited us in to start the day with a feast of dishes and rice wine that could have been enough to get us through the next month. The fabulous fare included braised goat, chunky chick peas, barbie pork and noodles (and of course rice wine)…………… there is an expectation to visit as many homes as possible and an order of sorts to the way the day progresses whereby the host from the next place to be visited delivers a message to say it’s time to move on. On the first day we visited no less than 15 homes enjoying an staggering assortment of dishes….the hospitality was incredible and the fun and dancing into the night……unforgettable. The merriment continued for the next three days and when Yvonne and Beth left – (after almost missing the bus) we all wondered if our bodies would survive the revelry. What else can I say but Happy New Year Bangladesh.
Yes, yes, yes – I am doing some work. I have begun some policy reviews and have made more visits to schools. Karen, the Managing Director from Save the Children Australia was here a few weeks ago and we spent the day visiting schools and had a special meeting with the student representative group from one of the neighbouring villages. Karen and I have decided we have to try to get some project going with the Australian Cricket Board for the village kids of this cricket crazy nation. If anybody has a particular contact I would be grateful. My consultation roles with Zabarang is progressing and the marvellous staff there are so supportive…………..particularly as my visa issues continue – bonus is the fiasco resulted in a trip to Calcutta (yep – next blog we’re off to India folks).
I know I have tried to express my gratitude for your TLC before but I am truly staggered, flattered and humbled by you support, generosity and interest. Your parcels, emails, phone calls, sms and letters have been critical to my happiness and wellbeing in the Desh. I am very happy and comfortable here, however, there have been one or two challenging moments and a nano second of ‘flat-time’. It’s amazing how your contact in one form or another has been perfectly timed to lift my spirits, not to mention, save my hair and feet and provide goodies for the local kids. For those who are waiting on replies to emails and letters they are in the mail……………….
Take special care luvvies – still missing you all and for one reason or another am reminded of you every day.
Abar dEkha hObe
Hugs from the Desh
Marguerite
The New Year celebrations kicked off with a community march starting at the oval just near where we live, then proceeded through town and finished around an hour later, at the cultural festival site on the outskirts of town. It was so much fun and a wonderful experience dancing (even some moments of line-dancing) and singing (we could have done with your assistance Jane) through the streets with hundreds of the local villagers. A very impressive cultural show, with typical Bangladeshi high volume merriment followed. Miriam and I apparently featured on national television when the celebrations were broadcast around the country. I promise, even though I have not seen the footage, our behaviour was very respectable…………………. We were then invited to join the dignitaries to a very impressive buffet – I have learnt it pays to be a little adventurous and sample the traditional delicacies because presentation can often be deceiving, and most of the food, while usually spicy, is extraordinarily YUM – khub mojar kabar (translated = this food is delicious – problem is when you make this comment your plate is piled high again).
Talking food, there’s an added bonus to keeping company with the awesome volunteers from other countries – aside from learning so much about their amazing experiences, I get to enjoy a diverse range of gastronomical treats. Elyse, Miriam, Lysanna and Kyson (who you have all met previously) and Omari (my gorgeous friend from Kenya) are always cooking up fabulous dishes……so I’m wondering if the Aussie barbie or my tuna pasta bake will ever make the grade. I have to tell you though, the Vegemite (thank you Dawnie) sandwiches I made for arvo-tea were an absolute hit. They have asked for a repeat.
OK, back to Biju………….In the evening, my fab volunteer friends Beth (from England) and Yvonne (from Scotland) arrived three hours late on the bus from Dhaka to join the five day food and wine fest. I know some of you will be curious about the wine factor, given we are residing in a Muslim country. The Chittagong Hill Tracts (which is akin to a state or territory in Australia and where Khagrachari is located) is the exception, with a diverse range of religions observing each others’ celebrations and traditions. The area is famous for rice-wine and while I haven’t sampled it myself, I understand the taste ranges from ‘smooth as silk’ to ‘residual rocket fuel’. (Would luv to try to bring some to happy hour Waltergator, but I think I would have to declare it as inflammable goods.) Nevertheless, it is consumed with great gusto, particularly by foreigners (I have caused some confusion for the locals – a foreigner who doesn’t drink alcohol!!!!!!! but they are very respectful and always provide plenty of juice and of course tea). (Mind you the other ex-pats are more confused to be in the company of an Aussie who doesn’t drink alcohol – so you can see our reputation for enjoying a grog or ten is alive and well all over the world.)
That night a horde of us indulged at System (our favourite restaurant) and some of us ‘kicked on’ back at my place – all very civilized of course because we were briefed about the ‘non-stop’ partying ahead of us for the next three days and our 0800 start the following morning for the pilgrimage to Matai Pukhini, Nunchari.
This event occurs once a year when approximately five thousand Christians participate in a pilgrimage to the ‘Holy Pond’ to bathe in symbolic spiritual renewal. As you can imagine it is fairly unique for foreigners to participate and we were very noticeable in the crowd (especially as we travelled with police escorts). However, the locals were delighted with our presence and encouraged us as we trekked the long climb in the extreme heat. This hike was a challenge even for the fittest of us and a few rests were necessary along the way. The effort was worth every drop of sweat though. It’s not known how many foreigners have actually swum in the pond but Lysanna and I decided to brave the stares and, with the assistance of some local women, stripped off and bathed in the holy water. Terry, (a fantastic new mate from Canada who works with Save the Children), said the gallery of photographers on the bank of the pond multiplied in seconds – you can imagine how unusual it would have been for these people to see white skinned ‘bidehsis’ participating in this ritual. I will spare you those piccies (don’t worry Jordan, it wasn’t as embarrassing as it sounds because we covered up in borrowed rinais to maintain our dignity) but I have include a couple of the actual swim and some of the journey. Even though the water was muddy and we were sharing with sacred goats that were being blessed, it was a remarkable opportunity and one I am grateful we had the opportunity to experience. The trek back was a little less challenging after being refreshed by the cool water. We were all fairly tired, but managed to party a little…….OK, a lot, that night after dinner at a friend’s house.
The real feasting began around 10am the next day before we even left the building where my flat is located. One of the families downstairs invited us in to start the day with a feast of dishes and rice wine that could have been enough to get us through the next month. The fabulous fare included braised goat, chunky chick peas, barbie pork and noodles (and of course rice wine)…………… there is an expectation to visit as many homes as possible and an order of sorts to the way the day progresses whereby the host from the next place to be visited delivers a message to say it’s time to move on. On the first day we visited no less than 15 homes enjoying an staggering assortment of dishes….the hospitality was incredible and the fun and dancing into the night……unforgettable. The merriment continued for the next three days and when Yvonne and Beth left – (after almost missing the bus) we all wondered if our bodies would survive the revelry. What else can I say but Happy New Year Bangladesh.
Yes, yes, yes – I am doing some work. I have begun some policy reviews and have made more visits to schools. Karen, the Managing Director from Save the Children Australia was here a few weeks ago and we spent the day visiting schools and had a special meeting with the student representative group from one of the neighbouring villages. Karen and I have decided we have to try to get some project going with the Australian Cricket Board for the village kids of this cricket crazy nation. If anybody has a particular contact I would be grateful. My consultation roles with Zabarang is progressing and the marvellous staff there are so supportive…………..particularly as my visa issues continue – bonus is the fiasco resulted in a trip to Calcutta (yep – next blog we’re off to India folks).
I know I have tried to express my gratitude for your TLC before but I am truly staggered, flattered and humbled by you support, generosity and interest. Your parcels, emails, phone calls, sms and letters have been critical to my happiness and wellbeing in the Desh. I am very happy and comfortable here, however, there have been one or two challenging moments and a nano second of ‘flat-time’. It’s amazing how your contact in one form or another has been perfectly timed to lift my spirits, not to mention, save my hair and feet and provide goodies for the local kids. For those who are waiting on replies to emails and letters they are in the mail……………….
Take special care luvvies – still missing you all and for one reason or another am reminded of you every day.
Abar dEkha hObe
Hugs from the Desh
Marguerite
1 comment:
Hey MM,
love your room - that wardrobe hanging system is fantastic - simple and practical!
think of you often - like lots
hugs
WW
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